Best Point Drivers & Framing Tools (2026): Logan vs Fletcher

Fitting is the step where DIY framing usually falls apart: the glass, mat, art, and backing are stacked in the frame and now something has to hold them there. Push points by hand and you bend half of them; use a point driver and they go in square, flush, and fast. Logan's F500-2 is the tool that makes that step a thirty-second job at home, and its dual-drive design is why it sits at the top of this page. Load flexible points for a frame you may want to open again (a rotating print, a diploma), or rigid points for a permanent fit, and the same tool drives both.

Against the Fletcher tools below, the Logan is lighter duty and a good deal cheaper, and it takes Logan-format points rather than Fletcher's. For a home framer who cuts mats on a Logan mat cutter and fits a few frames a month, that is exactly the right trade. Order a box of F55 flexi points with it; the tool ships ready to work but you will want the 2,500-count refill within the first year.

Walk into a custom frame shop and the point driver on the fitting table is almost always a FrameMaster. Fletcher-Terry built it for one job, driving rigid points into moulding hundreds of times a day, and the design reflects that: a stout body, a mechanism that seats a point flush without bruising the rabbet, and a point format that Fletcher has kept stable for decades so a shop never has to re-tool.

The honest comparison with the Logan is about volume and permanence. If your framing is permanent and frequent, the FrameMaster's build pays for itself and the points are always in stock at any framing supplier. If you fit a dozen frames a year, or you need to open frames later, the Logan Dual Drive does the job for less and adds flexi points. Shops that do both typically own a FrameMaster and a FlexiMaster, and that pairing is what our framing masterclass recommends for anyone framing at a commercial pace. Add a box of Fletcher Framer's Points; the driver is sold without them.

Some frames are furniture and some frames are containers, and the FlexiMaster is for the second kind. A gallery rotating a show, a photographer swapping prints, a school framing a new certificate every year: all of them need a backing that lifts out without tools and goes back in flat. Fletcher's Flexi-Points are the bendable staple-style point built for that, and the FlexiMaster drives them with the same shop-grade mechanism as the FrameMaster.

For a home framer, the case for owning a FlexiMaster is thin; the Logan Dual Drive handles occasional flexi work for a fraction of the price. For a working studio, the FlexiMaster and FrameMaster pair is the standard fitting bench, and the points for both are stocked by every framing supplier. Order frame kits with a deep enough rabbet for flexi points to clear the backing, and the tool does the rest.

Not every framer wants to standardize on one point, and the F400-1 is Logan's answer for the drawer full of assorted hardware. The listing describes it as driving four different point types, which in Logan's fitting-tool lineup means it covers the common brads and glazier's points as well as framing points. That versatility is the whole pitch: if you inherited a shoebox of points from a relative's workshop, or you frame with whatever the hardware store had, this tool is more likely to use what you own.

The price is the other argument. At $45 it is the cheapest real point driver on this page from a maker with a support line, and for someone who frames a few pieces a year that is enough tool. Where it loses to the F500-2 is refinement and speed; the Dual Drive seats framing points more consistently, and if framing points are all you use, spend the extra $23. Read the listing's compatibility list before ordering, and keep in mind that whatever points you drive, the finishing steps (a dust cover and D-rings and wire) are the same.

A point driver without points is a paperweight, and the refill is where the real cost of ownership lives. Logan's F55 box holds 2,500 flexi points, and the listing lists the F500-1, F500-2, HM515, and P515 as compatible drivers, so it feeds the Dual Drive and its predecessors. At roughly six frames' worth of points per dollar, it turns the per-frame cost of fitting into pocket change.

Flexi points are the right default for most home framing because they let you open the frame later, but they are not universal. A heavy frame with thick glass, or a permanent piece you will never reopen, holds better on rigid points; Logan's F54 (600) and F56 (2,500) rigid refills exist for that, and the Dual Drive takes them. Keep both boxes on the bench and let the job decide. Fletcher owners should note these do not cross over; the Fletcher Framer's Points below are the rigid refill for the FrameMaster.

Rigid points are the permanent fastener of picture framing, and Fletcher's are the ones frame shops standardize on. Driven flat by the FrameMaster, they hold the backing under constant pressure without the fatigue that flexi points accept by design, which is why finished art, customer work, and gallery inventory get rigid points and stay closed.

The Fletcher points do not feed a Logan driver, and Logan's do not feed a Fletcher, so pick the ecosystem with the tool. A FrameMaster owner keeps a box of these on the bench and, if any work is changeable, a box of Fletcher Flexi-Points for the FlexiMaster. Once the points are in, the finishing sequence is the same for everyone: dust cover, D-rings, wire, and a proper hang, which our professional hanging tools guide takes from here.

The dust cover is the step that separates a framed piece from a framed piece done properly. Once the points are in, a sheet of backing paper glued over the back of the frame seals the package against dust, insects, and humidity swings, and it hides the points and the raw backing board. Lineco's paper is the one conservation framers reach for: an archival-supply brand, a listed 0.006 inch thickness that tears cleanly along the frame edge, and a neutral light gray that looks intentional rather than like packing material.

Application is simple. Run ATG tape or a glue stick around the back edge of the frame, lay the paper over it slightly oversize, burnish the edges, then trim flush with a sharp blade against the frame. Mist the paper lightly and it tightens like a drum as it dries. The 24 inch roll covers most frames up to 22 inches on the short side; go to Lineco's 36 inch roll for bigger work. This is the last step before hardware, and the finished back, with cover, D-rings, and wire, is what a gallery or a buyer sees when they turn the piece over. Our framing masterclass walks through the full sequence.

The back of a frame is where you can tell who framed it, and D-rings with wire are the right answer for nearly everything a home framer produces. Two D-rings screwed into the frame about a third of the way down from the top, braided wire strung between them with a little slack, and the piece hangs flat and level on one or two hooks. A kit like this one gives you the rings, the screws, and the wire for a stack of frames at once.

Where the kit stops: heavy frames, large glazed pieces, and anything over roughly moderate weight should get wire with a stated rating from a framing supplier, and very large work belongs on two hooks or a cleat rather than a single wire. The hooks, levels, and the hanging technique itself are the subject of our tools for hanging art like a pro guide, so this page ends at the wire and that one picks up at the wall.